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The Elder Village


I once read a newspaper story covering Zhouzhuang, one of southern China’s most famous historic towns, accompanied by a picture illustrating the bustling local tourism. The picture showed the renowned Double Bridges full of camera-toting tourists led by flag-bearing guides with megaphones in hand. Every boat passing under the bridges was also packed. Actually, such a scene is not uncommon in China’s tourist hotspots during peak seasons.

In the late spring of 2010, I traveled alone to Anhui Province. It was nearing the May 1st holiday when I arrived in Tunxi District, the government seat of Huangshan City. The streets were crowded with noisy vendors and tourists coming to visit the famous Huangshan Mountain. Without hesitation, I fled the boisterous town to nearby Shexian, a small, ancient county that offered a peaceful, comfortable afternoon. The next day, I opted to visit another locale with similar tranquility.

A local friend recommended Chengkan, which was praised as the “first village south of the Yangtze River” by Zhu Xi, a prestigious scholar of the Song Dynasty (960-1279). However, I wondered if the small, remote village still deserved such a haughty reputation.

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